Panama: Coffee Paradise of Contrasts

A papaya plant and skyscrapers in Panama City, 2024. 

Our fourth coffee Origin is Panama. And we start straight away with Fine Robusta. You read that right! After being in contact with the Robusta pioneers from Kiva Estate for some time, we had the opportunity to visit them in early 2024. We spent a few days together in the Central American country of contrasts.

Panama is actually a small country that connects the whole world: the Pacific with the Atlantic, South America with North America, Asia with Europe. Panamanian society could hardly be more diverse. It originates from indigenous natives, European colonialists, African slaves and migrants from all over the world. Christianity, Judaism, Islam, atheism, shamanic beliefs and natural religions coexist. People earn money in the financial industry, IT, crypto, trade, logistics, production and even sustainable agriculture. In little Panama, the hub of the world, nothing seems impossible.

Panama City showcases this hypercomplexity in a particularly impressive way. Skyscrapers stretch upwards, next to them are colonial buildings that the English and Spanish took turns stealing from each other. The jungle extends to the edge of the city. Indigenous people sell handicrafts on the city beach. A stone tower built by the Welsh privateer Henry Morgan after he conquered Panama in the 17th century still stands among the trees in the coastal forest outside the city. Every square meter tells a different one of Panama’s many Caribbean adventure stories.

The Panama Canal is probably Panama’s most important achievement. In addition to cruise ships and yachts, 285 million tons of goods are transported through it every year. That is roughly equivalent to the mass of two Empire State Buildings every day.

Panama is slightly smaller than Austria. Its various facets are densely packed and, compared to the huge countries in South and North America, can be reached quickly. If you don’t fancy the hustle and bustle of Panama City, you can treat yourself to a picturesque Caribbean beach. And the next day a beach on the Pacific. And the next day, with a bit of luck, sip Geshas in the mountains on the border with Costa Rica. Not only are the coffees unaffordable, but the property prices in the region also make our ears prick up.

Even as coffee importers, we have no access to the private coffee auctions in the country’s most expensive resorts. This is where the kings, emperors, sheikhs and billionaires of the world buy their coffee. Price is not an issue. We are told that even the Japanese emperor sends his personal coffee taster every year, who then tastes each Gesha plant individually. We have arrived in the VIP land of coffee.

In Panama City, we have an appointment with our partners from Kiva Estate at the micro-roastery “Mentiritas Blancas” – white little lies. I’m an hour early on purpose and want to get to know the café in advance. The atmosphere is friendly and approachable. There is maximum diversity among the clientele. The baristas serve equally friendly backpackers, digital nomads, business lunches, dates or just coffee connoisseurs. I find selected dishes on the menu and then 4 pages full of coffee varieties. Wow! I get goosebumps when I read the coffee menu and wonder how this variety on offer is supposed to work. Then the barista explains to me that all the varieties are freshly roasted. The roasted coffees are stored in ~10g bags in a visible freezer, ready for preparation at any time.

I first decide on a Eugenioides, then on an anaerobic dry fermentation Paracaturra and finally on the coffee I’m actually here for: the anaerobic slow dried (ASD) Robusta from Kiva Estate. All three coffees are perfect to the point. The service is friendly, fast, professional and approachable. If I were to be served a coffee like this in Europe, I would probably get a lecture on what NOT to do when I drink it.

I sip carefully from my three cups and wish I had this café in Germany. How I would love to share this experience with all my dear employees, customers and coffee colleagues!

My friends from Kiva Estate enter the café laughing, interrupting my musings. It’s time to do business. It’s time for canephora.